is one of those modeling projects that you start during a furious
drive, but have no guarantee that will hit the end... The idea
appeared after finding several interesting photos of the WR360
locomotive, like this one:
eh? But I'd need the Pioneer and the Famo, not to mention the dolly.
And besides, that's not exactly the proper place for a manouver
locomotive. Yep, the WR360 was a diesel-electric locomotive, meaning
that it didn't have traction enough to pull large compositions. It was
used as a tractor unit for railroad guns, but its main use was in
managing and organizing compositions in large railway terminals.
Anyway, a visit to Austria called my attention to Lake Grotto, a major
gypsum mine confiscated by the Germans during WWII to house the
production of the Heinkel He-162 in the safety of underground tunnels.
At this point I started to think in a WR360 pulling a flatbed wagon out
of such a tunnel with a partially assembled He-162 on top of it...
Besides the 1/35 scale Trumpeter WR360 offering, I also
had Trumpeter's railway gondola in 1/35 and a Revell He-162 in
1/32 in my stash. My promise to finish as many halted projects as
possible would have to wait.
scale trains are pretty much like AFVs, except that thei are bigger,
and heavier. Or so I thought. Before starting to remove parts from the
sprues, I gathered as many references as possible, and they are not
many. Internet was a big help here, because altough both kits (the
WR360 and the wagon) were well molded, I was able to find many faults
in the WR 360. Wagons are commonly modified in the field, but not
locomotives. The WR 360 was produced in a number of versions, and I
stuck to the box version (C12) in order to minimize the necessary
initial research revealed that it was almost impossible to find two
post-war photos of WR 360s with similar cabins. making even more
difficult to find reliable photos of them during the war. I then
elected to adopt a mixed approach, including details which would make
sense in a diesel-electric locomotive, without changing the basic cabin
layout since it seemed basically correct. Other sources of variations
are the wheels, brakes and all those pressure reservoirs and piping
under the engine. I decided to start with the latter.
of the kit parts with photos of the real thing showed that Trumpeter
simplified several details on the underside of the chassi, and not all
of them are invisible. The master brake system was the part to recieve
improvements. The brake cylinder is provided in the kit, but no piping,
neither the pull-back springs so visible in the photos. I added the
missing details, and scratchbuilt the brake auxiliary pressure tank, valves and the associated piping.
I added the sand dispenser hoses installed on both sides of the
rearmost wheel. They were made with plastic rod bend to shape and fixed
in place with Aluminum clamps:
not removed from the sprues at this point, the brake shoes also had
pull-back springs. Apparently this was a field addition since the type
of installation varies a lot from a photo to other. I added the spring
support for the shoes and took care to represent the weld lines
wherever it was visible. This was done by gluing pieces of stretched
sprue and soaking the area with liquid cement. Once the stretched sprue was soft, an old, dull X-acto knife was used to produce the textures:
to the upper front side of the chassis, I detailed the handrail
supports with plastic card and bolts to simulate the steel plates used
on the real thing. I also added a few weld lines here and there:
the rear area, I changed the conductor's seat support (more on that
later) and added a plate to hold what I understand is the handbrake
front and rear plate of the chassis recieved several improvements, like
electrical hoses for the lights, access plates and bolts. It is
important to mention that I didn't like the way Trumpeter has molded
the bumpers, so I decided to leave them out until I come up with
to that point, the fit of all parts was very good. The only really
annoying thing was the number of ejection pin marks. Eliminating them
(at least where they would be visible) slowed down the parts
preparation significantly. On the other hand, Trumpeter made good use
of slide molding to produce an amazing one-part engine cover. Mine came
warped, but once you install the access hatches and drop it on the
lower chassis everything aligns well. Added details here included the
compressed air line to the whistle and the plastic side guards
replaced by metal rods:
main engine doors had missing details as well. I added new handles
made from brass rod and the characteristic stops which prevent the
doors from flipping over the sides. Still missing are six hooks (three
per side) used to raise the locomotive. I've seen some fellow modelers
adding strap hinges to the doors, but to the best of my knowledge,
all a C12 had there was piano hinges.
radiator of the diesel engine must be painted and finished before the
cover is glued to the bed. I used stock parts, which include a nice PE
grille, but also added some gizmology that a repaired unit should
show... artistic licence:
Except for the aforementioned hooks, the engine cover was done:
next area to be tackled was the conductor's cabin. Finding
documentation for its interior was a tough task. In the end, I decided
not to depict all the instruments, levers and handles neatly arranged
like if the locomotive had just left the factory. I wanted a war weary
machine, and therefore field modifications, additions and deletions
were common in an area so crammed with mechanical stuff. Therefore,
some manometers and plumbing are adapted... I reasoned that this would
be much more interesting environment to a heavy weathering
treatment later. Here is the result by then:
used different materials, from plastic, brass, Aluminum in wire and
tubing form. I developed an easier way to manufacture Aluminum brackets
from soda can strips, and I used them almost everywhere in this
project. The manometers are pieces of tubing and disks glued together.
I also embossed countersunk rivets using a beading tool, while the
lines of round head rivets where produced using 3D decals from
Still in the cabin, the conductor's bench also recieved a number of improvements:
also added a few other details not shown in the photos, but at this
point I was convinced that a careful painting would bring the office to
gluing the cabin walls, I had to take care of three things. First,
smaller details had to be prepared. I added a small first aid box to be
installed on one of the walls. I also had to scratchbuilt a master
handle completely overlooked by Trumpeter and a crank used for who
was particularly satisfied with the way my hand wheels ended up.
Trumpeter provides them as photoetched items, but I wanted to impart a
more three-dimensional look to them. In order to solve that, I punched
the spokes off using a punch & die tool. The spokes were
lightly bent to a conical shape by pressing an embossing tool over them
resting on a rubber pad. I then made rings using 0.5 mm solder
wire and glued the spokes centered over them, resulting in very
convincing - and truly 3D - wheels:
second major work on the cabin was to improve the lateral doors. I
added handles on the outer side, and a window crank on the inner sides.
The port door was removed to be assembled open. In the process, I had
to replace both vertical door frames (removed from the original parts)
with plastic strips. Fortunately, I had a close match in my plastic
bin, and didn't even had to true them:
provided nice PE anti-slip metal sheets to be bent and used in all the
stairs and steps of the model. Their use is straighforward, and they
add a lot to the plastic parts:
exception for which Trumpeter has not provided any PE detail is the
hinged platform behind the cabin's rear door. I upgraded it with
left-over PE parts simulating anti-slip sheet glued atop the kit part:
finish off the control cabin, I added a gutter to the cabin's roof. It
was just a matter of gluing plastic strips along the sides of
the curved roof and sanding the edges to simulate a curved sheet:
wheels were assembled as per kit instructions, except that I decided
not to glue them to the axles to make painting easier. However,
most moving parts lack important details, in particular safety
devices and lubricating accessories. Most of the movable parts
have some kind of cap or plate to keep the lubricant from spilling out,
and these are fixed in place by bolts. Since I don't know the exact
terminology for these thing, the figure below shows some of these items
common to old locomotives:
took a shortcut and stashed circular disks to the shafts, maybe I'll
add an hexagonal bolt later. The lubricant tub covers were made by
rectangular plastic strips, with a small bolt glued atop of it:
a halt of several weeks, I resumed work on the project. To keep some
interest on it, I had to paint something, so I started with an
easy thing: the radiator of the diesel engine. Nothing fancy. Some black,
dark gray and steel paint, black washes and lots of drybrushing:
to my initial thought, much of the radiator could be seen through the
front grille. I cemented the radiator in place, protected it with
pieces of post-it notes and glued the engine cover in place. The
post-it notes will protect the radiator during the whole assembly, and
eventually removed throughout the grille openings. If you are
assembling this model, don't forget to paint the interior of the engine
cover with a dark color, because you can see a lot through the
Looking around to see what I was missing to finish off
the locomotive, it became clear that there wasn't much left in the
sprues, and so I decided it was time to paint and assemble the
conductor's cabin. I started by the floor, but soon I realized
that there was a small color puzzle to solve first: which ones should
be the colors of the cabin's interior? With my limited info on the
subject, I reasoned that most things should be painted with the same
color of the exterior camouflage, i.e. panzer gray, but it also seemed
correct to leave the control bench painted in black like most engines
during their civil life prior the war.
Back to the floor, the real thing was wood planked, and it would be a nice chance to use the now popular hairspray technique
to simulate chipped paint. I started painting the planking with two or
three shades of wood, then shot a protective layer of automotive clear
gloss lacquer, and finally coated everything with a good layer of the
cheapest hairspray I found in the mall:
After waiting the hairspray to dry, I shot a coat of Tamiya German Gray XF-63 acrylics
and dried it right after using a hair dryer. And then the fun started:
I soaked the whole area with tap water and started to scrub the
acrylics with a short flat brush. The wetted hairspray layer will make
the paint above it to peel off easily (I'm currently writing an article
explaining the method - stay tuned). I reasoned the German Gray
color would flake off from the planking more heavily along trails
connecting the doors. That's why I removed almost all paint from these
liked the effect, with some paint remaining along the deeper wood grain
marks and into the crevices between each plank. I sealed everything
with another coat of gloss varninsh and applied a Burnt Sienna
oil wash to simulate grime and stains. A final coat of flat
varnish sealed the wash and after that I drybrushed a light cream
yellow oil to highlight the wood grain and reduce the contrast between
next obvious painting section was the conductor's bench and its
'control panel'. I was willing to paint those parts, but I had to hold
any multi-color thoughts after checking many photos I took while
visiting the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania, because
these spaces were not full of color. Instead, most of the times they are
just plain black, except for a few important devices like emergency
brakes, master pressure valves and the like. I airbrushed a solid layer
of semi-gloss black automotive lacquer over the parts and, while the
paint was still in the aibrush cup, added a few drops of white and went
back to the parts to simulate fake shadows, lights and a few grimy
The most fun part was to bring manometers,
gauges, valves and all those typical gadgets to life. I used cockpit placards and instrument
decals from various manufacturers and left over sheets to decorate
them. Whenever I had a punch matching well the gauges' diameters, I'd cover
the instrument with a thin clear disk to simulate the glass.
Otherwise, I'd just apply a droplet of clear nail varnish. Both worked
well, but nothing matchs the realism of a clear disk simulating gauges'
same approach was used for the instruments on the conductor's bench. I
think Trumpeter should have provided decals for them... To weather the
area, dark gray paint was applied with a sponge along edges and corners,
while Prismacolor gray pencils simulated scratches and small paint
chipping. Graphite was used to bring some shine to recent scratches.
Pin washes reproduced dust and dirt accumulated along edges. The
final weathering step was to make a liberal use of Humbrol's Polished Steel
(#27003) from their Metalcote line with both a pointed brush and
sponges. I love this stuff, as they can be polished when dry, rendering
the perfect 'exposed metal' look to the part.
Here is a look of both assemblies together:
deviated from the instructions at this point of the assembly. Since I
had opened one of the cabin's door, it would be impossible to assemble
the four cabin walls. Instead, I assembled the front and side walls
using alignment tools to make the corners perfectly square. I would let
this dry completely before attaching the back wall.
cabin's roof are formed by two parts to be installed on the top of the
cabin. It would be made removable to see the cabin's interior
afterwards. And by the way, in the photos below the cabin still have a
few details to be installed, besides the windows, of course:
This is how the WR-360 stood a this point. Note the pre-shading already applied along the main body:
back wall was simply painted dark gray and weathered with scratches
here and there. To add interest, I glued a first aid box from a
leftover PE set, right behind
the conductor's seat. The reworked door was also painted using the
hairspray method. Each door recieved a couple of handles, an opening
handle and a window lowering handle:
couple of extra details were added (a few wires) before the back wall
was glued in place. Careful alignment was important, as I wanted to
make the cabin's roof removable to show the interior. Handling the
model started to become an issue, since there were several details to
be assembled on the underside (not the mention the whole brake system
and wheels), and holding the model by the engine cowling was not an
option because of the fragile details cemented in place (see text
I ended up making a jig using bolted acrylic plates. The
jig securely hold the model by two axles and, although not perfect,
the application of the main camouflage color approaching, I temporarily
assembled the doors and windows in place to serve as masks. The trick
is to apply a good coat of Maskol (or similar) to the windows and fix
them in place with tape on the inner side of the cabin. Once the
external paint is finished, I would just pop the windows and doors out,
remove the Maskol and glue them definitely in place. I blocked the
cabin's ceiling with pieces of sponge and tape.
details added to the hull at that point were the engine panel lockers,
which were scratchbuilt from plastic bits, and the characteristic hooks
on top of the engine, used to lift the cowling. Trumpeter missed both,
and the latter had a master scratchbuilt and copied six times in
resin. Once glued in place, the hooks were decorated with Tichy Train
item which I really disliked in this kit are the side buffers of the
engine. In my sample they had a visible mold shift, and these are the
kind of part which never looks good without being perfectly
cylindrical. Since it would be impossible to make them acceptable
without reducing significantly their diameter, I opter for copying a
brass item from Lion Roar (railroad flat buffer)
in resin. They are workable, but all I wanted was the internal
cylinder, which will later accept the buffers from the kit. The
external cylinder was turned in my lathe, copied in resin, and glued to
the front and rear plates in lieu of the kit parts. Once the main
camouflage is finished, I would go back and install the movable parts
of the buffers inside them:
loading my airbrush to apply the main camouflage color, I had to dig
some further info about the WR-360, in particular the C-12 model. I
found out that most of them (maybe all C-12s) were manufactured before
the war, and only a dozen or so of them were actually produced before
switching to the C-14 model, which was manufactured in much larger
numbers. Supposedly, the C-12 never saw action outside the German
borders, but I don't care that much (more on that later).
point here is that before the war these engines had a less military
aspect. I'm guessing that most of the WR-360 had their running area
painted red like other locomotives usually are (and can be testified
by color photos of the model C-14). When pressed into war service,
a suitable camouflage would be in order, and I doubt the crews would
disassemble such equipment just to apply a coat of Panzer Gray.
Therefore, it seems reasonable that some of the red color on the
underside of the engine could be seen through the panzer gray
camouflage. That was the plan.
And so I started applying a solid
layer of ATSF Red from Floquil railroad range - nothing could be more
suitable, eh? I used the ATSF Red on the tanks and accessories too
before gluing them in place. The scratchbuilt brake parts were painted
red and black and cemented in place as well. These subassemblies were
all painted separately and then installed because when the panzer gray
color would be airbrushed, I didn't want it reaching the hidden areas
of the lower engine, leaving a hint of the original red color there -
just like what should happen with a crew man using a paint gun to
camouflage the sides.
everything was dry (Floquil are enamels, taker more time than I'm used
to), I painted the whole engine with Panzer Gray. While the paint was
still in the airbrush cup, I added white and thinned the mix even more,
and went back and applied highlights and fading here and there,
particularly on the horizontal panels which should be more exposed to
the sunlight and accumulated more dirt.
Then I started to
apply the other camouflage colors. I used a mix of Tamiya's Dark Yellow
and Deck Tan to make the tan color, while the Olivegrün (RAL 6003) is a
mixture of Field Green and RLM 82 from automotive lacquers. I
airbrushed both colors freehand using a Grex Genesis.XN airbrush. It
was not a neat job, but I reasoned this was field applied cammo,
in a rush, and using whatever paint was available (what good excuse,
eh?). Of course I went back with a lighter version of the green and the
tan and faded both to age them a bit as well...
Here is how it was by then:
failed to find any documentation about specs to camouflage these
things, and understandably probably never will. So the colors and
pattern where an educated guess, but I had some hints from a couple of
railroad modelers and camouflage scheme from a Czech magazine.
Here you can see how the red color was purposedly left visible at places to simulate a paint job made in a hurry:
And that's how it was:
a long time working on other projects, I resumed the work on this
model. Meanwhile, a great deal of time was spent reading about
weathering techniques. Fortunately, we had endless resources and media
on the subject, but still, it is a long learning curve on pigments,
filters, washes, chipping and all that stuff that didn't exist last
time when I finished a 1/35 model. I'm an old school modeler, and
wanted to try some ready made products like washes and special effects.
confess I was a bit afraid of ruining the model trying something new
(to me), but I prefer to approach this phase being afraid of overdoing
something than ending with those models which look like they remained
70 years under the mud... Fortunately, I made no serious mistakes, but
during the process I had to constantly remind myself the goal of mildly weathering the WR-360, as an operational equipment which hasn't been submitted to much beating.
The basic steps I followed were as follows (I had to go back to some of them occasionally):
1. Airbrush further fading on selected areas using lighter mixes of the camouflage colors.
2. Apply filters using artists oils.
3. Apply flat coat followed by a gentle oils dry-brushing with lighter camouflage colors.
4. Apply pin washes using dark brown oils.
5. Simulate heavy dirt on the undersides.
6. General dusting using enamel paints.
7. Simulate leaks, streaks, and rain marks.
8. Simulate rusted areas using pigments and paint.
9. Paint chipping using a fine brush and acrylic paints.
10. Exposed metal simulated with powdered graphite or a pencil.
And the products primarily used for each step were:
Grinded pastels and pigments (steps 5, 8 and 10): I used earth tones
for dirt and light earth for general dusting. Brands used for pigments
were AK, Mig and CMK. I used AK Dust Effects for the first time. I
tend to use CMK's pigments for mud and heavy dirt because their
pigments are visibly coarser than the other two. I also used pigments
for light rust effects.
B. Diluted enamel for effects (steps 6 and 7). I used AK Streaking Grime, Dust Effects, and oils.
C. Artists oils (steps 2, 3 and 4): Baically Natural Shadow, Gray, and Burnt Sienna oils.
D. Acrylic paint (step 9): Vallejo dark brown and dark grey mixes were used to simulate paint chipping.
7 was applied more heavily on the front and rear of the engine. They
will be further enhanced later on, as I still have to install all the
rust streaks were also applied under the windows, handles and panel
joints. Step 6 was used on horizontal surfaces, particularly the
catwalk on both sides of the engine compartment. At that point, all I
did was to soad the catwalk with AK Dust Effects enamel. Later on these areas will receive chipping, scratching and oil marks:
8. On the top of the WR-360, I wanted to simulate a heavier rust
effect, typical of areas where the metal panel presents a depression or
sag, making the rain water accumulate and trigger the rusting process.
I used the sponge method and acrylic paint to produce a gradation
from light to dark rust colors. Pigments soaked in turpentine helped to blend everything.
I also used the sponge method to chip the paint in the ladder entries and around the chimney:
9 is something that you have to do on several passes. On the first one,
I used a fine pointed brush and Vallejo acrylics to produce chipping
around areas with heavier use/traffic. At that point, I limited
chipping to handles, corners, and ladders. I also chipped the paint
under the engine, pressure vessels and piping. Those will be retouched
later with a red pencil to reveal the red undercoat:
is difficult sometimes to decide the order of the steps in order to not
destroy the previous ones. It also requires good judgement to keep the
balance, keeping in mind the severity of the weathering you want for
insance, chipping on the top of the lights may sound strange at first,
but it is possible that crew would step on it while servicing the
engine. By alternating steps 6 and 9 you can simulate old or new
chipping. Later, colored pencils will be used to enhance recent
chipping with a lighter color of the camouflage:
kept dry-brushing (step 6) to a minimum. Many modelers have abandoned
dry-brushing, but it is still a powerful and simple recipe to enhance
details, particularly when used with pin-washing and chipping. The
piping feeding the horn (below) is a good example, and the technique is
still unbeatable for enhancing bolts and rivets, in my opinion:
expected, the washes, filters and effects darkened considerably the
overall finish. And there will be no final flat coat on the model,
which usually lighten the colors a bit (a final flat coat would weak
considerably the effect produced by pigments). That's another reason
why it is important to fade the camouflage colors to a good extent,
even in larger scales such as 1/35:
As I said before, many of the steps may have to be reapeated as I proceed with the weathering.
While I proceeded with the weathering on the engine body, I decided to use a different method to weather the conductor's cabin roof.
I simulated rusted spots using paint, pigments and white spirit as
usual, but instead of using dedicated fluids to simulate the
I experimented using the pigments for that. It was just a matter of
depositing a small amount of rust colored pigments on the starting
points and dragging it downwards using a flat brush. It worked pretty
well. However, I discovered that commercial pigments like AK and MiG
may not be as intense as good quality pastel chalks are. Exactly
the opposite of what is advertised by modeling pigments' manufacturers.
Living and learning...
And while at it, I also simulated grime accumulated along the gutters playing with artists oils and white spirit.
the bottom side of the roof, a lighting system was adapted using the
kit parts. I turned a bulb from a piece of clear sprue and thermoformed
a glass cover using acetate. A conduit was shaped to run from the side
to the luminaire, and small pieces of aluminum foil formed the clamps.
Judging from photos of other engines of the time, I suspect these roofs
had a bare wood finish on the internal side... well, blame Trumpeter:
Trying to finish off the remaining details of the engine, I modified the kit lenses to accept stretched clear sprue mushroomed
over a candle. They were painted with clear paints before being
permanently attached to holes previously drilled. I don't have a clue
whether the colors are correct or not:
Still on the details of the engine, I had to finish the coupling
system and the buffers. As mentioned above, kit parts C10 and C11
were replaced by two resin, improved ones. The outer cylinder of the
buffers were glued to the front and rear plates of the chassis as you
saw in the photos. The task then was to finish the movable parts of the
buffers. The resin inner cylinder was cut to size and glued to the
round and flat buffers (they alternate sides at the front and the rear
of the engine). In order to do so, I installed the resin parts on a
lathe and cut them to the correct length. I also turned a small step at
the end of the cylinder to accept the kit's buffers, like in the
weather the buffers/cylinders was a difficult task. Photos of
railroad stock and engines show that if there is a part of the
equipment that was not cared that much, they were the buffers - well,
they are made to hit other buffers, afterall... My plan was to
simulate buffers that were once overpainted with panzer grey and
weathered heavily due to heavy work. So I applied factory color
(black), then a light coat of panzer grey, and everything went out of
control after that. Kidding aside, except for these two initial paint
coats, everything was a bit of experiment to me, methods and sequence
of application. The steps sequence I used were basically the following:
2. Semi-gloss black:
this was a factory applied color. I used automotive semi-gloss paint to
avoid the need of clear coats later and to resist to washes and
I used Maskol applied with a sponge over the buffers to make a
heavy grey paint chipping (next step). Used on the buffers, only.
4. Panzer grey:
this was the camouflage color that - I guessed - was overpainted on the
engine when pressed into military service. I used a lightened version
of Tamiya XF-63.
5. Paint chipping: the underneath Maskol was removed with a pencil eraser to show the black color.
6. Dry-brushing: Light grey oils were dry-brushed on steps and bolt heads, mostly on the back side of the buffers.
7. Dark rust:
older rust spots were simulated using Vallejo paints and the dry-sponge
method. The effect was applied on the front face of the buffers, trying
to concentrate the effect on the perimeter of the disks, and also on
the front part of the cylinders (Zone 2 - see text below).
8. Light rust:
more recent rust spots like in step 6, except that I used a finer sponge and a more reddish color..
light dust pigments thinned with Windex was generously applied over
the parts. Once dry, excess was partially removed with a flat
10. Exposed metal: Humbrol Polished Steel
was applied with a sponge on the center areas of the buffers. This was
necessary to simulate the effects of mechanical contact between buffers.
11. Metal pitting: Pitting was simulated by hitting a 6B pencil randomly over the buffers, producing tiny dark, yet metallic, spots.
At this point the buffers were virtually done. This was the result of these mere 11 steps:
the cylinders still needed treatment. Since these are movable,
lubricated parts, some reasoning is necessary. Under impact of another
buffer, the buffer cylinder acts as a suspention, moving telescopically
into the outer cylinder. Therefore, I devised four basic zones along
- Zone 1 is basically the flange that connects the
buffer to the cylinder. Therefore, it only collects dust and grime, and
may show traces of the panzer grey.
- Zone 2 is the
portion of the inner cylinder that never enters into the outer one. It
may rust a bit, but may also show some remains of the polished steel
due to grease stains.
- Zone 3 is the complicated one, because
it marks the end of the travel length of the buffer system. Then, after
some time in service, all the grease used to lubricate the cylinders
end up in a messy smudge ring around zone 3, plus grime, dust,
grass, deck cards, cigarette butts, engagement rings, you name it...
Lost something? Try looking there!
Zone 4 is the working length of the cylinder, which actually enters
into the outer one during operation. It is common to apply grease in
large quantities around this area, but most of it is pushed forth to
Zone 3. The attrition between the cylinders and the lubricant make this
zone mostly exposed metal.
So, how to weather these zones? This is what I did:
12. Dark dust: Further darker dusting diluted with Windex was applied on the back side of the buffers and Zone 1.
13. Exposed metal: Humbrol Polished Steel
was dry-brushed circumferentially along Zone 4. This produced a faint
metallic sheen randomly spread around the telescoping length of the
Zone 2 was left as it was, but I still had to simulate the grease smudge on Zone 3.
14. Grease smudge: In
order replicate this effect on Zone 3, I installed a disk on my
lathe covered with a double sided adhesive tape. This allowed me to
mount the almost-finished buffers without the risk of damaging the
painted areas. I prepared a mix of Tamiya Smoke (X-19) and Humbrol Smoke
pigment and applied it with a brush while turning the lathe at minimum
speed. By zigzagging the paintbrush just a tad you avoid a perfectly
circular mark. Don't simply brush the mix, try dabbing the point of the
paintbrush. In addition, small blobs of the smudge sometimes left the
paintbrush, simulating larger spots of grease. The pigment made most of
the X-19 sheen disappear, so I had to come back and apply gummy
(partially dry) X-19 randomly with
a toothpic around Zone 3 and the aft end of Zone 4. This resulted
in a mix of old (semi-flat) and recent (gloss) grease simulation:
Once everything was dry, the finished buffers were glued in the outer cylinders:
And this was the result of steps 12-14:
coupling mechanisms were next. I want them movable, at least the aft
one, since it must connect the flatbed later. I used a method that
master modeler Rodney Williams taught me. Basically, I drilled holes
where the pins went and inserted a plastic rod which was
'mushroomed' by a lit incense (not a candle, as shown below):
ended up using this method for all connector pins. The bolts &
studs are brass items from Precision Harware. The parts were
individually painted with semi-gloss black automotive lacquer, dusted
with pigments and chipped with polished steel using a sponge.
you can see in the photos, the vacuum and steam hoses (parts C6) were
painted and glued in place. An eagle eye will note that I bent the
hoses slightly to make them look more natural. One of the hoses on the
aft was replaced by an insulated wire of suitable diameter, so I can
shape it to connect to the respective one in the flatbed later.
masks of the lights were finally removed, revealing the bulbs made
earlier with clear sprue. The traffic lights atop the cabin were glued
in place, as well as the whistle.
so I was finally on the last bits. The conductor's door was cemented
open, and a crude lock was made from plastic bits. The little access
platform was also glued in place, and unfortunately it hides part of
the coupling details under it. All the windows were installed and light
earth color pigments were powdered over them, then removed with a soft
make-up brush, leaving accumulated dust around their borders. The
window on the driving side was cut in about half its height to look
like if it was lowered. I even
simulated one of the windows cracked - it is a nice effect, but
difficult to capture in the photos.
lateral door was also installed in open position, but first I had to
add a metal strip running over the top of both wall sections. This
was glued with epoxy glue and is a necessary measure to adde stiffness
to the assembly, particularly in the case of a removable roof. The
atmospheric view of the cabin pleased me, I just hoped I had taken the
photos under natural light:
processing these photos I noted that I forgot to install the electrical
cables of all four lights. The holes and conduits are there, but
the next time you will see the model will probably be during the
the work on the brake system also payed off, albeit hidden under the
ladder, it was a real improvement over the kit parts. The movable parts
of the wheels should be a tad more greased to my taste, maybe I'll add
still have to add scratchs and chipped paint revealing the red color
under the camouflage. This will be done with a colored pencil later on.
For now, I can call it done:
removable roof doesn't seem a so good idea now... The fit is so tight
that everytime I remove/put it back I'm afraid some paint will be
damaged. So far so good. Anyway it would not make any sense in not
allowing to see all the details in the cabin:
the next installment, I'll just add a couple of shots showing the red
paint scratches and the electrical connections, maybe. For now, these
are the final photos of this long project: